What are organic cosmetics ?
1) Why organic cosmetics?
For several years now research laboratories have adopted a certification approach developing top-quality products also offering the advantages of the organic ingredients that they contain. The ORGANIC (BIO) and ENVIRONMENT-FRIENDLY (ECO) logos enable them to be identified today.
In traditional cosmetics, there are numerous ingredients of synthetic origin, and there are still ingredients of animal origin. It is difficult to evaluate the effects of these products on our skin after years of application, or even the consequences of procedures considered to be polluting for the environment.
Organic products are a guarantee of the respect of Man and his environment :
Concretely, what are the advantages of organic products ?
Respect of Man : As well as containing no polluting chemical substances (pesticides, chemical synthetic fertilisers, GMOs, etc.) which, in the long term, are harmful for our body and the environment, organic cosmetic products are extremely rich, containing a larger quantity of active ingredients and living raw materials that are really effective in the long term.
Traceability and safety It is not always easy to know the exact composition of a "traditional" cosmetic product and to identify the origin of the raw materials that compose it. Organic cosmetology is today controlled by bodies such as Ecocert and Qualité France. This makes it possible to ensure the traceability of the product ingredients and manufacturing procedures and to guarantee the authenticity of the organic labelled products.
The protection of the environment Organic agriculture is a production method that respects biodiversity and natural balances. By actively supporting this farming method, you are helping restore the quality of water, soil and air.
The richness of organic products Nature offers us a very diversified panel of ingredients. Each ingredient, whether it is of vegetable or mineral origin, has numerous, very specific properties. This natural diversity enables the formulation of a wide range of effective products respecting the natural balances.
Animal protection Animal extracts, or tests on animals are prohibited in organic cosmetics.
Only ingredients stemming from animal production (that have no effect on the animal's heath, for instance honey) are authorised.
2) The main differences between an organic product and a "classic" product
The manufacture of a cosmetic product is relatively complex: numerous ingredients are carefully dosed to obtain an effective and harmonious mix of the emulsion, suspension, foam or gel type. A traditional cosmetic product contains 4 ingredients :
· An excipient: a substance that acts as a vehicle for active principle(s). By its composition it will modulate the penetration of the active ingredient into the epidermis.
· Active principles : these give a cosmetic product its effectiveness
· Adjuvants: often essential, adjuvants are preservatives (anti-septics, anti-oxidants), stabilisers (gelling and thickeners agents) and moisturising agents which prevent the preparation from drying.
· The additives: they are sometimes optional, sometimes essential and are mainly fragrances and colourings.
· Other ingredients essential for the formulation: emulsifiers and surface active agents
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A few examples of ingredients used in traditional and organic cosmetics :
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Type of ingredient
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Classic cosmetic
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Organic cosmetic
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Excipients
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Mineral fats and oils, petroleum sub-products (paraffin, vaseline) and synthetic products (silicon) and/or vegetable fats and raw materials of animal origin
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Vegetable oils and fats (Olive, Argan, Apricot...)
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Active principles
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Molecules isolated by extraction or synthesis
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Natural active ingredients: oily extracts, hydroalcohols, plants, hydrolates, essential oils, etc.
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Surface active emulsifiers
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Petroleum derivatives, synthetic chemical products
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Derivatives of sugar, vegetable raw materials, transformed by gentle chemical reactions with a very substantial natural part.
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Adjuvants
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- Synthetic preservatives
- Stabilisers (synthetic polymers)
- Moisturising agents
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- Natural preservatives or "identical natural " preservatives (citric acid or benzoic acid)
- Natural stabilisers (derivatives of sugar and cereals)
- Natural moisturising agents
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Additives
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- Synthetic fragrances
- Synthetic colourings
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- Fragrances: organic essential oils (lemon, rose, geranium, etc.)
- Natural colourings
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Each of these ingredients themselves contain several ingredients which are of synthetic or natural origin but very often the proportions of synthetic to natural are not shown on the packagings.
What we can be sure of, however, is that organic cosmetic products, and more particularly products complying with the Cosmébio charter, contain at least 95% of natural ingredients or ingredients of natural origin. Cosmébio drives this research by inciting industrialists and manufacturers of ingredients to constantly innovate and make natural and certifiable raw materials available.
3) Cosmébio's requirements :
what guarantees are behind the logos?
Based on job specifications that were filed with the Ministry of Industry in 2002, the Cosmébio charter offers transparency as to the type of ingredients and the manufacturing procedures used to produce your organic cosmetic products.
In accordance with our charter, the products bearing the ORGANIC or ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY logo contain mainly natural ingredients or ingredients of natural origin. The entire composition of an organic product is carefully controlled and must comply with strict rules.
It must contain at least 95% of natural ingredients, ingredients of natural origin or stemming from organic farming (in all cases the proportion is always more than 95%)
The reference standard authorises a minimum or even a negligible quantity of synthetic products that are still available in natural form. (These ingredients must meet the requirements of a very restrictive positive list excluding PEG, silicon, petrochemical derivatives, etc.).
- For vegetable raw materials, at least 95% must be of organic quality
- Without synthetic fragrances or colourings
- Total barring of synthetic preservatives, such as parabens or phenoxyethanol
- No petrochemical products (paraffin, silicon, PEG)
- No GMO (genetically modified organisms)
- No ionising treatments
Nature must be fully respected (respect of ecosystem balances, no testing on animals)
The procedures for obtaining the ingredients must be non-polluting
The wrappings and outer packagings must be biodegradable or recyclable
The consumer must be provided with full, transparent information on the ingredients used and all the manufacturing stages through to the finished product. The percentage of natural ingredients and the percentage of organic natural ingredients must be clearly indicated on all certified product packagings bearing the organic or environment-friendly logos
4) Understanding the "Bio" organic and "Eco"
environment friendly labels of the Cosmébio charter
Le label BIO de la charte Cosmébio
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Caption ORGANIC = ingredients stemming from organic farming
NAT = natural products or ingredients or ingredients of natural origin, including certifiable and non-certifiable (e.g. water, minerals) products
An organic cosmetic product may contain a minute amount of synthetic products (authorised preservatives necessary for the protection of the product)
Natural… Organic : a few explanations
An ORGANIC ingredient is a natural vegetable ingredient or an ingredient stemming from animal production (e.g. honey) which can be certified according to the organic farming rules Access Glossary
Some so-called "natural" products cannot stem from organic farming, for instance :
- Ingredients of natural origin that they have undergone gentle transformation (of the type hydrolysis, condensation, hydrogenation, etc.)
- Natural ingredients that are not of vegetable or animal origin (such as an ingredient of mineral or marine origin or water).
* Depending on the category of products (beauty treatment creams, hair products, make-up), the proportion of ingredients that can be certified is variable. This is linked to a large extent to the proportion of water in the formula. The minimum organic content of the entire formula is 10% and this may be as much as 100% for many products certified in the beauty care category.
The Comébio charter environment-friendly label
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At least 50% of the vegetable ingredients
of a product with the environment-friendly label are organic products
and at least 5% of total ingredients are organic.
5) How to identify them in the sales outlet ?
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The ORGANIC ("BIO" in French) and ENVIRONMENT-FRIENDLY ("ECO" in French) logos are designed to help you find organic and environment friendly cosmetic products in sales outlets. They are a guarantee of quality and respect of the charter drawn up by Cosmébio.
The percentage of natural ingredients and the percentage of organic ingredients are clearly indicated on all packaging of certified products bearing the ORGANIC and ENVIRONMENT-FRIENDLY logos. These products are sold on your doorstep in your usual sales outlets : the percentage of natural ingredients and the percentage of organic ingredients are indicated on all the packagings of certified products bearing the ORGANIC and ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY logos.
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